Herriott Way Walk

STAGE 5 - DENT TO KENDAL - 22 MILES

What a bloody nightmare! Today was always going to be a push, but this leg took the biscuit! It wasn't helped by the fact breakfast was not until 8.30 on a day when I would be walking for at least 10 hours. 

I got off around 9am and got back down to the river to continue my route to Bowness.

The weather at this point was ok, with just light rain. The scenery around Dent continued to be really lovely.

The path along the river went on for about 4 miles and as usual for the Dalesway, in the wrong bloody direction!. I was heading for Sedburgh, but in a roundabout way. Once I got to Sedburgh, I started to head north parallel to the M6, some 5 miles west of me. This went on for hours, with me constantly being within the boundaries of Sedburgh as I skirted around the town. This was really disconcerting, as it made for the impression I was getting nowhere. Here is an image of what the paths were like now. Seemingly endless, with no civilisation in sight.

The road to nowhere.

I came out into a beautiful hamlet called Millthrop with gorgeous gardens like below:

By now the weather was getting worse. I was still only wearing a T-Shirt, but the persistent drizzle  was turning to heavy rain, and I was getting soaked and cold. I had done about 15 miles by now and decided to stop for lunch in a little wood as I crossed a stream. There was nowhere dry to sit, so I sat in the middle of the footbridge and dangled my legs over the edge. 

Video of my lunch spot.

By now my feet were really sore, especially my left one, with the ominous feel of a developing blister. The problem was, the fields were incredibly boggy, making progress slow, and every time I stumbled into knee deep sludge, I was getting water in my boots. To make things worse, the stiles I had to get Rufus over (at 16kg) were getting more and more challenging. Gone were the nice simple step ladder wooden stiles Rufus could climb up and drop down unaided. These were replaced by 7ft high stone walls with a couple of stone plinths to climb up. I had to carry Rufus over each one. Get him to stand still at the top so I could climb over and carry him down , struggling as he does, to the other side. I was steadily becoming exhausted and the sun was dropping fast, and I checked my sat nav for the distance to Kendal. I still had 5.5 miles to go, and my pace had now slowed to a pedestrian 1 mile per hour, and it was 3.30, so the prospect was I would still be put on the moors until 9pm!

Another bridge to add to my fetish list!

In order to get under this bridge I had to cross a deep ford, with no visible stepping stones. Rufus just swam across, so I had no choice but to wade in and get yet more water into my sodden boots.

This reminded me of a river crossing earlier this day. I was behind a couple who seemed really quick. I came across them standing puzzled at a really deep ford. They said there was no way across, and yet the guide said there was a footbridge over. I walked to the edge of the river and said, "is that the foot bridge just next to us, you know, that massive suspension bridge?".

The scenery, as if I cared by now, was definately becoming more Lakeland like, rather than Dales.

The problem I was having was that my sat nav only held maps for National Parks and I was leaving the Dales and had not entered the Lakes. Also, my Dales maps was running out, and my Lakes maps would not kick in until after I crossed the M6. This left me with only my crappy 1:50000 strip map. This meant I was now reliant on the Dalesway signposting. Unfortunately, this was not always evident, or at least not so after a bloody spiteful farmer had torn down the signs. This led me to wade through about a half mile of unholy cow shit slurry 6 inches deep having missed the sign at a farm in the middle of nowhere. I had to ask at the farm and trudge / wade back through the crap to a gate with no markings on it to realise this was the turning.

Missing exits from fields became common place at this stage. You would follow the alleged path based on worn or trappled grass, only to find it was a sheep trail, and you would have to retrace your steps and start again. This was adding miles to my journey, and it was getting late. 


As the light was fading, I finally crossed the M6, such a delight for the weary traveller. However, it did represent a landmark, as I was now officially crossing into the Lakes from the Dales.

Ummh! What a delightful sight!

Once again, as I approached the M6 footbridge, I find a farmer has gathered his entire herd of cows to mingle. This is absolutely not a coincidence. This is done deliberately to spite walkers who need to pass through to the footbridge. This particular enclosure was tiny surrounded by electric fences with a blue loop of plastic over one section for walkers to straddle. Clearly in this rain, there is always the thought you are about to get your 'nads fried as you step over. This is compounded by the fact cows hate dogs, and you are warned not to guide your dog through a field of cows on a lead. There are many stories of humans being trampled to death. I had therefore learned to leave Rufus off the lead, and he would wait in the distance for the call when I had opened a gate. He would then sprint round the edge opf the field to get out as quick as possible.

I even found myself stopping and holding up my hand in a stop motion and shouting."NO!" to cows who were running after Rufus. I felt like I was back out on the town on a Friday night in Blackburn in my youth!

At soon after 8pm, after walking solid for 11 hours I eventually arrived at Burneside. The destination for the day, and some 22 miles plus diversions.

It was a great sight to be greeted with a row of walking boots outside to signify the end of a marathon journey, literally.

My feet on inspection were far more damaged than I had thought. There was no way I could finish the final 8 miles into Bowness, so these will have to wait for another day. No time for heroics when I could do permanent damage to my feet.

I fully intend to do one challenge walk every year, and I have no regrets about the pain and discomfort. Otherwise it would not be a challenge. I always believe you have to earn your rewards, and there were certainly some treats I witnessed on this trip. I also met some great people along the way.

See you next year folks!

STAGE 4 - SWARTHGHYLL FARM OUGHTIBRIDGE TO DENT - 18 MILES

Today as planned, I got started at sunrise, and set off around 6.30am. I knew this was due to be a hard slog across the moors. I didn't expect it to be so cold at first light. It was just above freezing, but there was still ice on all the gates, and there was frost on the ground.

The Dalesway route up to the Pennine Way (the highest point on today's trek) was across horrible bog. It was almost impossible to put one foot in front of the other. The guides said best avoided or endured, but there was no way around, so endurance was the order of the day!

I had magnificent views of both Ingleborough and Whernside along this part of my trek. On any other day I would have wanted to climb them both, but not today.

Ingleborough

Whernside in foreground with Ingleborough behind.

I struggled on towards the Pennine Way and eventually squelshed my way to a plantation with a grouse farm inside, to repair stocks for the annual grouse shooting season. Rufus is rather partial to a bit of grouse, so was running around like a mad thing!

I eventually came out of the wood onto what was supposed to be a Dalesway path. Well, as far as I could see, gthere was no path to be seen. I know I was on it, because my hiking sat nav had me spot on course. I was just stumbling over clumps of reeds, and falling knee deep into bogs. Eventually, when I was knackered, I fell into a divet and was pitched forward, but gthe weight of my pack just sent me face first into the turf. I was letting out a few explitives at this point, so Rufus came back to see if he could offer any support! In the end, I decided to lift Rufus over this fence and climbed up to the Pennine Way which I knew would be a proper path.

 This is supposed to be a major path!

Onto the Pennine Way at last. Now I can walk on terra firma.

I actually managed to see Pendle Hill on the horizon, which is my local fell I grew up with and is where my parents still live. Not on Pendle Hill of course, because that would make my Mum a witch!

Once you get onto the Pennine Way, you are greeted by a spectacular view of the Ribblehead Viaduct under Whernside. This railway is still working, and carries the train over this valley on the Settle to Carlisle line.

The Ribblehead Viaduct

Once I decended to the Denthead viaduct I met up with three Barnsley blokes who all worked in the NHS as nurses in mental health so we had a good moan for the rest of the journey into Dent!

The views as we descended into Dentdale were fabulous with excellent views of the Lake District in the distance with good views of the Langdales.

Eventually, after a weary 18 miles, we came into Dent. The Barnsley lads stayed for three pints with me before moving on for a further 8 miles to Sedburgh! They were made of sterner stuff than me that's for sure.

The picturesque village of Dent

It may be a pretty village, but that doesn't stop Rufus leaving his mark!

I had a gargantuan feast that night at the George and Dragon. A 16oz Gammon steak with all the trimmings, washed down with a pint of local beer, Aviator. There was a miserable bloke next to me with his wife. He was supping his pint and saying, " I can't taste any citrus overtones in this beer, and why do they call it a chestnut ale, when it is just bloody beer". His wife was telling him it doesn't matter,  but he said it does, and really annoyed him. He was determined to keep drinking pints of aviator until he tasted the citrus overtones, or else he was asking for his money back! In the morning, he refused to pay for his steak, whcih he described as shoe leather. What a tosser! I thought it was an excellent stay, one of the best on the entire route.

 

STAGE THREE – CRAY TO SWARTHGHYLL FARM OUGHTIBRIDGE – 6 MILES

Today was effectively my rest day with only 6 miles to walk, and boy do I need a rest!

I opted to remain on the moor top and this was a great decision, because the views were fabulous.

The light was amazing

Wow!

Because there was always a fine spray of rain today with strong sunlight, it was inevitable there would be a rainbow. I seemed to have a fine rainbow for company throughout my mornings walking.





I was really impressed with Rufus and his behaviour around sheep. I trained him last year on the Coast to Coast walk, and he seems to have remembered to ignore sheep. I now don’t bother with a lead for Rufus apart from walking on the roads.

The last leg of today’s journey was on the road, so tough on my delicate feet. This was a really quick leg of my journey, arriving at the Farm by 12.30. I was staying in a converted flat in the farm complex. It is really weird. I have a lounge with satelitte TV, and a kitchenette. A big bedroom and large shower room. I had my supper delivered to reheat in the oven, with fresh vegetables to cook up. My breakfast was delivered raw for me to cook up tomorrow. I have sausages, bacon and eggs.

The owner warned me to keep Rufus away from his terrier. He brought him to my door to show what I need to avoid. He said, “your dog will probably kick his head in, but my dog will go down fighting! Oh how little he knows of my little nancy boy Rufus, who wouldn’t say boo to a goose. This farm also seem to have calves for pets looking at these fellas!

Tomorrow is due to be a nighmare, with 18 miles to Dent. I aim to leave the farm by 7am and look to do around 9 hours of continuous walking. This will be followed by an even worse day of 22 miles on Friday to get to Kendal.

STAGE TWO – APPLETREEWICK TO CRAY – 17 MILES

If I had known what a nightmare this days trip would be, I would have just stayed in bed! Little did I know that I would have the full force of weather right out of the Old Testiment. The only thing missing was a plague of frogs! As a result, I didn’t take many photos, for fear of having my camera blown from my hands.

It all started so well. I decided to do the walk in three stages of 6 miles. The first stop being in Grassington. I stopped off to get a sandwich for later and some Midget Gems, purely for medicinal reasons you understand. I then had a pint of Black Sheep in a local, again, purely for medicinal reasons.

The light at this time of the morning was brilliant. An arty view of a bridge!

And another one! Blimey, I think I am starting to get a bridge fettish!

The problems began on the second leg from Grassington to Kettlewell, 5.5 miles. The winds kept picking up to galeforce, and I was climbing onto the top of the moors, so felt the full force, into my face. Then the rain came down, followed by hailstones being whipped into your face. Poor Rufus, he couldn’t find anywhere to hide. It was slow going, and took me three hours to get to Kettlewell. Rufus went straight into a pub and just sat down in front of the fire. I had to follow him in and order some more medicinal beer. I had no intention of going in before Rufus made up his mind to visit this hostelry. I was absolutely knackered, and this was made worse when a couple who also set off from Appletreewick came in and declared they were worn out but glad they had reached their destination. I still had six miles to go!

It takes a hurculean effort to pick yourself up from in front of a roaring fire and set of again when you have over three hours of hard trudge to go yet.

This was the highest point of the day, and then the lowest! Soon after this, the wind picked up so violently, it was difficult to stand up, and then the hailstones came down again!

This was a video I took at the height of the winds just after a hailstorm.

My pace was getting slower and slower as Imade my way to Buckden, the usual end point for the hardy walkers, but not me! Once I got to Buckden, I had a further mile to go, up to the top of the moors to Cray High Bridge. I was at snails pace now, with my feet in absolute agony. I arrived at 5.30pm – Not bad after all that.

The White Lion pub was OK, but the room was awful, and really cold. Poor Rufus couldn’t get dry, so he shivered himself to sleep. We had no internet or mobile or TV, so I did what you used to do in the old days. I read a book and ended up going to bed soon after 8pm, and slept through to 7am!





STAGE ONE – ILKLEY TO APPLETREEWICK – 12 MILES

Hello Dear Reader,

So here we are ready for the off at last. Breakfast eaten (bloody awful) but at least Rufus got a fatty treat to line his stomach before the off. The problem is that we have the tail end of hurricane Katrina to contend with and I am walking West, so into the teeth of the wind.

Here is Rufus ready for the off.

I set off and all seems calm, then outside Ilkley, the wind picks up and I battle to stay upright. This is like adding double the miles to my journey!

I soon skirt around a caravan park and come across this sign. “Private Beach, Caravanners Only”

 I know West Yorkshire is missing a natural coastline, but I think it is a stretch to refer to this muddy embankment as a “Private Beach”! Maybe I can invite these happy campers to Blackpool to see a real beach.

I drag myself away from the deck chairs and sand castles and carry on my way. I soon come across an old Quaker meeting house. For those who don’t know, I am a Quaker, and this brings back weird memories of my schooling in a quaker boarding school in North Yorkshire. If you see the interior, it is like a smaller version of what I had to endure for 5 years, 7 days per week and twice on Sunday’s. Now if you read the sign, you can have a succinct answer to the question I always get asked. “what is a quaker?” “What do they believe in? “”Do you eat Porridge?” etc.

Well, you will all be amazed to hear we eat, breath and procreate just like normal people!

 

 

 

The next landmark we came to was Bolton Priory on the banks of the River Wharfe. This is a 12^th Century Augustinian Abbey that escaped the full ravages of Henry VIII.

I had memories as a child of hopping across the river on the famous stepping stones. See below:

The only thing is, like an idiot, I didn’t think twice about Rufus, assuming he could also skip across the stones, so off I went. I got halfway across only to see Rufus drifting downstream with a look of panic on his poor little face! I managed to coax him across to the side we started on, and he sheepishly escorted me over the bridge like a civilized person.

It was just on the other side, I saw a tradition I have come across before in Yorkshire that amazes me. They create money trees by hammering coppers into felled tree trunks.

It’s not the act of adorning a tree in money that is so amazing, as the concept of a Yorkshireman squandering good money! Any Yorkshireman I have come across would say, “why forego tuppence when you can put it towards your funeral expenses”.

Time for tea. A nice treat at my halfway point of the day.

River Wharfe in full flow. My beautiful companion for the day.

How about this for a foot bridge? A bit grand. The reason for this rather over the top design was because it was in the sight line of Barden Tower, just down the river.

I arrived at our Inn for the night in good time. It was an amazing room, which Rufus seemed to appreciate. However, no en-suite, so off I went for a long hot bath, with Rufus lying on the bath mat. He is such a sissy, he can’t bear to be apart for a minute!

Arrival in Ilkley

Hi All,

Rufus and I arrived in Ilkley at 5pm on Sunday. The hotel is nice, and located right next to the river Wharfe at the start of the route. We went for a stroll along the river, and so far, the weather is holding out. The question now is do I venture onto Ilkley Moor 'baat t'hat? Not bloody likely!

Rufus is looking at the way ahead!

Rufus can't wait to be off

The River Wharfe