STAGE 4 - SWARTHGHYLL FARM OUGHTIBRIDGE TO DENT - 18 MILES

Today as planned, I got started at sunrise, and set off around 6.30am. I knew this was due to be a hard slog across the moors. I didn't expect it to be so cold at first light. It was just above freezing, but there was still ice on all the gates, and there was frost on the ground.

The Dalesway route up to the Pennine Way (the highest point on today's trek) was across horrible bog. It was almost impossible to put one foot in front of the other. The guides said best avoided or endured, but there was no way around, so endurance was the order of the day!

I had magnificent views of both Ingleborough and Whernside along this part of my trek. On any other day I would have wanted to climb them both, but not today.

Ingleborough

Whernside in foreground with Ingleborough behind.

I struggled on towards the Pennine Way and eventually squelshed my way to a plantation with a grouse farm inside, to repair stocks for the annual grouse shooting season. Rufus is rather partial to a bit of grouse, so was running around like a mad thing!

I eventually came out of the wood onto what was supposed to be a Dalesway path. Well, as far as I could see, gthere was no path to be seen. I know I was on it, because my hiking sat nav had me spot on course. I was just stumbling over clumps of reeds, and falling knee deep into bogs. Eventually, when I was knackered, I fell into a divet and was pitched forward, but gthe weight of my pack just sent me face first into the turf. I was letting out a few explitives at this point, so Rufus came back to see if he could offer any support! In the end, I decided to lift Rufus over this fence and climbed up to the Pennine Way which I knew would be a proper path.

 This is supposed to be a major path!

Onto the Pennine Way at last. Now I can walk on terra firma.

I actually managed to see Pendle Hill on the horizon, which is my local fell I grew up with and is where my parents still live. Not on Pendle Hill of course, because that would make my Mum a witch!

Once you get onto the Pennine Way, you are greeted by a spectacular view of the Ribblehead Viaduct under Whernside. This railway is still working, and carries the train over this valley on the Settle to Carlisle line.

The Ribblehead Viaduct

Once I decended to the Denthead viaduct I met up with three Barnsley blokes who all worked in the NHS as nurses in mental health so we had a good moan for the rest of the journey into Dent!

The views as we descended into Dentdale were fabulous with excellent views of the Lake District in the distance with good views of the Langdales.

Eventually, after a weary 18 miles, we came into Dent. The Barnsley lads stayed for three pints with me before moving on for a further 8 miles to Sedburgh! They were made of sterner stuff than me that's for sure.

The picturesque village of Dent

It may be a pretty village, but that doesn't stop Rufus leaving his mark!

I had a gargantuan feast that night at the George and Dragon. A 16oz Gammon steak with all the trimmings, washed down with a pint of local beer, Aviator. There was a miserable bloke next to me with his wife. He was supping his pint and saying, " I can't taste any citrus overtones in this beer, and why do they call it a chestnut ale, when it is just bloody beer". His wife was telling him it doesn't matter,  but he said it does, and really annoyed him. He was determined to keep drinking pints of aviator until he tasted the citrus overtones, or else he was asking for his money back! In the morning, he refused to pay for his steak, whcih he described as shoe leather. What a tosser! I thought it was an excellent stay, one of the best on the entire route.